29 August 2008

Onto Montenegro

This morning, I caught an early bus (7AM!!) to Budva, in Montenegro. The 8 hour drive was amazing! First, we saw the last of the beautiful Bosnian countryside and then went onto the Croatian coast. The water is soo blue and the beaches looked gorgeous. Five-star resorts dotted the waterfront all the way along the beach. Then, we entered Montenegro and the amazing views continued. One of the highlights was driving through the town of Kotor, which apparently has the highest fjord in all of Eastern Europe. The main part of the town is the walled city, but there is also a massive fortress high above the hill overlooking the water. Apparently, it is 1500 steps to the top! Not sure if I'll be climbing that.

We got into the resort town of Budva, and it is VERY touristy. There are shops and restaurants lining the beach, hotels and sunbathers everywhere. However, this is a nice change from coming from oppressively hot cities. I can't wait to hit the beaches...

The Tour

One of the big reasons I went to Mostar was because of this "Tour" that I had heard of pretty much in every city I had been to prior to Mostar. It was a full day of hiking, swimming, sightseeing and history.

Well, it started off great. We started with a panorama view of the city of Mostar from a hill that overlooked the entire city. Our tour guide gave us a personal account of what occurred during the war and how he was able to escape the country.

Later, we went to the famous pilgrimage sight of Medjugorje, which according to the locals, the Virgin Mary appeared to children on a hill near the town. Today, over 1 million pilgrims come to the site - which has become a huge tourist trap in itself.

We later went to a local swimming spot, filled with waterfalls and lakes. Some in our group tried to do a 30 foot jump into the water below. In order to jump, you had to do a bit of a running start in order to clear a tree growing out of the side of a cliff, and you really couldn't see the bottom from the top.....I chickened out at the top of the cliff. We went through caves, through waterfalls, and even swam under waterfalls.

Afterwards, we left and headed to more local sights, however our van broke down.......unfortunately this ended the tour with the exception of a dinner we had near a riverbank. Sometimes, you just have to be ready for setbacks, and this was unfortunately one of them.

26 August 2008

Onto Mostar



This morning, I left Sarajevo to travel to the smaller city of Mostar, Bosnia. This city went through even more destruction from the war and it is a lot more obvious driving through. There are many ruins of bombed out buildings scattered throughout the city.




The big attraction of Mostar is the famous old bridge, which was built in the 16th century and stood for over 400 years until the war in the 1990s destroyed the bridge. In the early 2000s the bridge was rebuilt again. Today, tourists and locals may jump off of the bridge into the water below.....literally about a 60 foot drop. A bit too adventurous for me....however I saw a big group of Aussies and Kiwis doing it today.




The small streets and alleyways surroudning the bridge are also very fun to explore. I bought a few more souviniers today before having a traditional lunch consisting of locall caught trout, and a tomato, cucumber and cheese salad.

Last Night in Sarajevo

My last night in Sarajevo was very quiet in the hostel, only like 5 people were checked in. So, i thoght Id take it easy and watch a movie in the living room......however, about 20 minutes into it, a huge group of people checked in and asked me if I wanted to go to dinner and drinks. Who can resist that. My "just a couple drinks" night turned into a full on party. First, we went to a club that had a great local band playing. They did songs in both Bosnian and also covers of American songs.



Then it turned into more American style hip-hop music.....and we drank the night away. So much for a quiet night.....

Wandering Around Sarajevo

I wanted to stay an extra day just to get lost in the streets of Sarajevo. I really do love this city, its my favorite one on the trip so far and really one of my favorites in Europe.

Today I started off with one of the traditional Bosnian pastries filled with cheese and spinach. They also do a meat version (of course) but I think Ive had a bit of a meat overload so far. I wandered the Turkish part of town called, Baščaršija. It is like he bazaar in Istanbul, but a bit less touristy and a bit more manageable.

I then wandered through the modern part of town where there are very expensive stores and cafes. I think this is a great part of town, where you really see how alive the city is. Everyone seems to just really try to enjoy life and takes it nice and slow.

I kept walking toward the end of the downtown part of town to see the Holiday Inn for a few more pictures and also the History Musuem located across the street. Here there were many artifacts from the war....it still is unbelieveable to me that this occured only a little over a decade ago, and how much the city has recovered since then.

One other thing about this city that I love is that there is sooo much diversity here. Today I went into a Mosque, a Church and a Synagogue, all within a 5 minute walk away from each other.

Lastly, I had to try a Bosnian Coffee. It is very similar to a Turkish coffee, tiny, strong and thick. Perhaps youve noticed that a big part of my travels revolves around food.

My Writing Sucks.....

I have to apologize for the poor quality of my writing, but as I said before Im just having too much fun to continue to be witty while I'm on the road. Especially when Im also trying to remember everything that happened in the past day or 2.

25 August 2008

Sarajevo Walking Tour

I'm staying at Harris Youth Hostel in Sarajevo, and this man is a legend. Even from Zagreb I have been hearing about how awesome his walking tour is, and how I MUST take it. The tour was not disappointing at all, we got a personalized view of the siege of Sarajevo in the early 1990s - one of the biggest reason Sarajevo is so famous as well as a good insight into the history and culture of the city.

Our first stop was the Tunnel Museum near the Sarajevo airport. While the city was under siege, the people of Sarajevo built a tunnel that linked the airport to the city. It was a complete lifeline for the city bringing in food, water, electricity and telephone communications. The UN had protected the airport, but would not let the Bosnians in or out of the city via the airport. We were able to walk a very small part of the tunnel, seeing what it would have been like to try to bring food and water back to your starving town.

During the siege of Sarajevo over 11,000 people were killed and almost half were children. Its hard to believe that this occurred within our lifetime, and also that locals I meet here who are my age remember trying to dodge sniper bullets when they were younger.

Our next stop was Sniper Alley, which is where many people had to go through to get to the food hand-outs since the entire city was cut off from the world. As you would guess from the name, this is where many people, including women and children were killed randomly by snipers sitting in the hills above Sarajevo. Many buildings in the city are still riddled with bullet holes and there are also markings from mortar attacks in the city. Walking on the sidewalk you often see red paint where mortar attacks occurred. These are called Sarajevo Roses and mark where mortar attacks occurred that were generally very deadly.

Our next stop was the bombed out parliament building....today a new modern glass one stands right next to it. Also down the block is probably the most famous Holiday Inn in the world. Although the Serbians initially bombed the building, the UN later protected it and it became the place where journalists who were covering Sarajevo stayed.

Sarajevo was also famous for hosting the 1984 Winter Olympic Games, and almost every venue created for the games was destroyed be the Serbians. Today, many have been rebuilt since the war ended - exactly as they used to be. Our tour took us to the Olympic Stadium.

Lastly, our tour ended in the Turkish part of town where many of the markets and bizarres are. We also had traditional Bosnian food, which again involves much meat. One of the dishes has small sausages and onions and cheese stuffed into a pita-type bread. Its great energy for the day.

24 August 2008

Bus to Sarajevo

I had a long day ahead of me, a nearly 8 hour bus trip to my next destination, Sarajevo. The bus itself was pretty empty and I met a Bosnian woman who wanted to practice her English so she made the time go faster.

I am very glad I did the trip during the day, as the Bosnian countryside is gorgeous! It was filled with mountains, rivers and cute towns. A quick stop at Serbian exit customs and Bosnian entrance customs and the scenery began almost instantaneously. The highlight of the trip, of course was driving into Sarajevo. The city is located in a valley and is completely surrounded by mountains, so you can see the entire city when you are driving along the mountains above the city.

I instantly realized why it was so easy for the Serbians to seize the city as you get a very good birds eye view of the city, making it easy for snipers and tanks to take out the city (more on this later).

I made it to my hostel which was a massive walk up a hill above the old town. However, the view of the city from their balcony is AWESOME. I met a group of people from the hostel and we went out to enjoy the Sarajevo nightlife!

Awesome T-shirt

At the Beer Festival I saw this guy with a very retro t-shirt that said "Beograd" in multicolors down the shirt. I asked him where to get it and I searched the city for it. Turns out, its at the Nike store in Belgrade. Best $20 I Ever spent!

Novi Sad

I decided to take a day trip to Novi Sad from Belgrade. Its a smaller city north of Belgrade about 1.5 hours by bus.

On the way there they were blasing Celine Dion all the way up. I had to blast my iPod to overcome the sounds.

Novi Sad is becoming popular for the big European music festival, Exit. However, Ive heard that the town itself is cool and is worth a day trip. I completely agree....but I am glad I didnt spend more than a day there.

The highlight of the town is a gigantic fortress overlooking Novi Sad on the Danube. It is massive, and it took me nearlz an hour just to find the entrance. The worst part is that it was well into the 90s that day....so it made for a very hot day.

The town itself has a major pedestrian mall that runs through it. There were some cute churches and stores along the way. I was also able to grab some food and just wander for a bit....spending a few hours before heading back to Belgrade. It was a good day trip, but I woudln't recommend staying much longer.

Sorry for the slow posts

..........but Im just having waaay too much fun to stop on the computer all the time.

23 August 2008

Too much meat!!

I went out to dinner with the 3 British guys I met in Zagreb. We decided to try a small Serbian restaurant near our hostel. The waiter spoke very little English but was adamant that each of us order a mixed grill. Almost every meal in Serbia involves meat, usually grilled. We ordered 5 mixed grills and salads and we got 2 HUGE plates of meat and salad.

He first brought out one plate which was plenty for all of us, and then he brought out a second plate!! They were filled with sausage, chicken cutlets, pork cutlets. It was a meat overload

21 August 2008

Is Nikola Tesla Croatian or Serbian???

Today was a bit of a lazy day in Belgrade. I went out with Cat and Ali, two Australian girls who were in my room to check out the Nikola Tesla Museum. Here in Belgrade, they claim that he is Serbian. In Croatia, they claim he is Croatian. Wikipedia says he was born in Croatia....its all very confusing. Both capital cities have museums devoted to him, and both are pretty cool. Unfortunately, the one in Belgrade is under renovation so most of it is not yet open to the public.

We walked more downtown, had a few drinks in a cafe, and had lunch in the Citadel overlooking the Danube river. I had a traditional Serbian hamburger - which is essentially a hamburger patty - twice the size of an American burger served by itself like a steak. Sometimes there is a side of fries.

Tomorrow, I plan to take a day trip to the city of Novi Sad, about 1.5 hours away from Belgrade. Many people know it for its famous European music festival Exit. However, I heard the town itself is a very fun, attractive Serbian town with a cool citadel as well.

Belgrade Beer Fest


I rarely make it in time to random cities for all the different festivals in Europe. But tonight I'm very lucky since I made it to Belgrade for the opening night of Belgrade Beer Fest 2008. It was insane. There were tents of beer, a huge stage, and even carnival rides (with techno music to boot) I felt like it was a carnival on speed.

We ran around, tried all the different beers: Montenegrin, Serbian, Croatian, and German. Then we rode the bumper cars! It was awesome. I felt like i was in high school again.

Later, we listened to some local Serbian bands. The local Serbians loved me, they kept talking to me and even threw me in the middle of a mosh pit! The Serbians know how to party!

Belgrade is famous for its club life and rumor has it that it is the best city to go clubbing in Europe. In fact, in the Sava River there are about 2 or 3 barges that were completely gutted and made into huge clubs. I plan to hit one (or more) before I leave.

To Belgrade


I finally made it to Belgrade, the capital city of Serbia. Ideally, I would have gotten enough rest on the train in order to hit the ground running...but that didn't happen.

Ideal Situation: You jump on an overnight train, get a good nights rest, arrive at the new destination feeling refreshed and ready to hit the new city running.

Reality: Couldn't find seats....finally found one with 3 seats across so I could lie across the carriage....however there were 3 individual seats so it wasn't flat and couldn't get comfy enough to sleep. Finally pass out, yet the conductor comes in, turns on the lights and checks my tickets twice. Croatian customs comes to wake me up in order to give me an exit stamp. Serbian customs comes in to give me an entry stamp - questions what I am doing in Serbia. UGH. Train arrives 1 hour late and I am EXHAUSTED!

On the plus side, I met a really nice Serbian guy on the train who was living in Ljubljana, Slovenia and gave me some pointers on stuff to do in Belgrade. Although there aren't typical touristy sights to see, it is just a fun city to walk around to get a feel of. It is a lot more of a gritty city than Zagreb, but it is also twice as big.

Walking towards the hostel, I was able to see some of the office buildings that were bombed out by NATO in the 1990s. It was a grim site, but certainly very interesting. I can't wait to get to Bosnia to really understand what happened during the war more. Since I got to the hostel at like 7.30, my bed wasn't available until the afternoon - so I wandered around the city with a Germany guy who was also on the train from Zagreb.

We went to Belgrade's most famous site - the citadel which is a fort overlooking the entire city on a cliff where the Danube and the Sava rivers meet. The views were amazing, and the fort itself was pretty cool (pictured above). Back in the hostel, I met a cool group of Aussies and Brits. The Brits happened to be staying in my hostel in Zagreb. We plan a big night tonite.

19 August 2008

Wandering Around Zagreb


Tonight I say goodbye to Zagreb as I board an overnight train into Belgrade, Serbia. I am really starting to like this town. Its very cute, everyone is friendly and the people here just seem to know how to relax. Whether its taking a leisurely stroll along the streets, or taking an hour at a coffee shop or even just grabbing an ice cream on the street. Its a cute town.

This morning I took a bus to what my guidebooks are saying is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe, Mirogoj Cemetery. And it certainly was. The entrance was made of huge cupolas and arches, and apparently houses manz of Croatia's famous people. See the picture before - still not mine trying to figure out where I can upload pics.

Later I made my way to the Technical Museum of Zagreb, which houses many different advances in technology - wasnćt sure if it was specifically Croatian related because much of it was in Croatian. However, there was a large section devoted to Nikola Tesla who is of course famous for technological advances in electricity and magnetism and is credited with changing the night scenery in America.

Now, i am just waiting for my overnight train to Belgrade. I hate waiting for things like late trains and buses - you always feel like you are trying to kill time. I guess it gives me time to catch up on my blog.

Pictures


I really need to figure out how to upload my pics....it always seems to take forever. In the meantime heres a picture of the lakes I went to yesterday.

Zagreb Nightlife Busts again

So, after Sunday night being a bust, me and the 2 Brits from my hostel last night were up for a big night again. Unfortunately, Monday in Zagreb is just like Sunday in Zagreb and is a quiet night as well. We sat in a few of the open air cafes and grabbed some beers, and also spoke to the locals about places to go out but everyone says that its quiet in Zagreb on Mondays.

One thing that I did notice here in Zagreb is that everyone speaks English - or at least enough to help you out if you are lost or need directions. Everyone is really friendly too....we went up to a group of locals and they invited us to sit with them and were really friendly all night.

18 August 2008

Foreign Service Exam

Woohoo! I passed.......now i have to wait a billion weeks to see if they'll bring me in for an interview.

Plitvice Lakes

It was awesome! Although completely crowded, with tourists, the lakes and waterfalls were great. The Plitvice Lakes is a massive site with tons of waterfalls, lakes and just great natural views. With about a 2.5 hour bus ride from Zagreb I was able to make a day trip out of it.

The way there was almost a nightmare. The city of Zagreb lost power this morning, so none of the trams were working. I was trying to run to the bus station, but it was pretty far from the city center. Luckily the power came back on, but all the trams were very delayed. I made it to the bus station 5 minutes before my bus was leaving. Hopping on at the very last second.

You can take any number of paths ranging from 3-8 hours of hiking. I decided to play it safe and did about a 6 hour hike. Your entrance fee also includes the boat rides and trams within the park. Although that almost makes it sounds like a theme park, they really are able to keep it a natural looking area. I was completely exhausted waiting for the bus back to Zagreb that I actually passed out at the bus station.

Zagreb

I love cities that have lots of pedestrian malls and parks and water fountains. Zagreb doesn't disappoint on any of those levels. I took a self guided walking tour and saw many of Zagreb's famous churches, the botanical gardens and just got lost in the city. Zagreb has many cute sidewalk cafes and restaurants and because it is still undiscovered by the masses is very affordable - and NOT crowded. Unfortunately Ive heard from other travelers that the coast right now is swamped with tourists.

Tonite I also met a bunch of people from the hostel - there was an American, a Canadian, a Dutch guy and a huge group of Maltans. We went out and tried to find fun, but apparently Sundaz nights in Zagreb are very quiet because everyone is coming from the coast.

Oh well....off to the Plitvice Lakes tomorrow which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

17 August 2008

My 40th Country

I woke up this morning to a great breakfast - and (almost) fully refreshed from the jet lag. Sometimes when it takes you so long to reach a destination that by the time you get there - you can hardly believe it.

That's the case here in Croatia - country number 40!

Transit to Zagreb

Finally here in Zagreb! It took a while (nearly 30 hours) but I made it.

Since my flight left from Dulles in DC, I took the Megabus to DC. Its one of the new cheap bus services on the east coast and it definitely kicks any of the Chinatown bus's asses. Our bus was even a double decker!

Ride down wasn't too bad, until we got to DC - then we were stuck in traffic for another hour or so (ugh!). But my friend Justin took me out to lunch before I took the bus out to the airport.

Dulles Airport was a nightmare! Of course I got the check-in guy who just HATED life and wasn't helpful at all. I paid for a bigger seat in Economy Plus but they still put me in a small seat in the last row of the plane. He also wouldn't help me with options to cancel my leg from Zagreb to Split. All in all check in and security took nearly 2 hours! God - i thought JFK was bad.

Luckily, the guy at the gate was more friendly and he got me a window seat in Economy Plus (bigger seats). The flight wasn't too bad, but you now have to pay for alcoholic drinks - damn United - most international carriers let you get sloshed for free.

I landed in Frankfurt at about 6.30 in the morning - but because they weren't ready for us - we didn't get off the plane and into the airport until about 7.30 AM. Still trying to cancel the last leg of my flight (Zagreb to Split), no one was really helpful at all.

So - with my 10 hour layover in Frankfurt - I decided to check out the town. It really isn't a bad city - I saw the old town, and the shops with all the high-end luxury stores. It was exactly what I would have thought of when thinking of a typical German city. Walked around the Main river, and learned to use the S-Bahn and the U-Bahn - Frankfurt's subway system.

Later in the morning - I met up with my old friend Aleks who happens to live in Frankfurt. She took me out to a fun brunch at a restaurant that was completely white - tables, curtains, doors, and seats. Then, later we went to what she claims as the "coolest" part of Frankfurt to hang out in a cafe.

Before long - it was back to the airport for the quick 1 hour flight to Zagreb - Croatia's capital city. I went to the Croatian Air customer service desk to beg them to let me off the next leg - expecting to fail. She said - "no problem" and even had them take my bag off the next flight and give it to me! Talk about good customer service. Why can't American carriers be more friendly.

Since I wasn't expecting to be in Zagreb for another day - I didn't have any accommodations planned, so I went to the hostel where I had reservations for the next night. Unfortunately they were full - and so was every hostel in my guidebook. UGH! I ended up splurging and stayed in a budget hotel for about 60 Euro - 3 times as much as the hostels. It was good for my 1st night to have TV, private bath, and even free breakfast since the jet-lag was really getting to me. I slept well that night........

15 August 2008

I'm off!

It's about 6.30AM and I'm in my apartment in NYC. I just showered and used the bathroom - probably the last clean bathroom I'll see for the next 3 weeks, and more than likely the only private bathroom. In fact, I'm probably going to be disgusting for the next 3 weeks....but we'll see. The plan today and tomorrow is a bit complex, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will go as planned.

Since I used my Mileage Plus miles for this trip the flights are kind of annoying. There were no mileage seats left on flights out of NYC today so I am taking a flight out of Dulles Airport in Washington, DC. The plan is to catch an 8AM bus to DC, and hopefully get in around 11.30AM. Meet up with my friend Justin for lunch before heading to the airport for my flight to Frankfurt, Germany.

In Germany, I have a 9 hour layover before my flight to Zagreb, Croatia. Luckily, my friend Aleks lives there and she and we'll have lunch and hang out in Frankfurt for a bit. Then, continue on to Zagreb, where I have a 5 hour layover before continuing on to the beach town of Split.

I actually would prefer to get off at Zagreb because I plan to continue my way to Belgrade from there. So, hopefully, the nice people on Air Croatia will allow me to cancel that leg without paying for it.

That's the ideal situation. Let's see how this actually plays out...........